Hi guys--

I recently got a mini fridge in my control room. Even though it's not on the same breaker as my audio, I get a pop when the compressor comes on or goes off. BTW, I have a UPS power conditioner on the gear. Why is this slipping thru? If I'm tracking, the pop will actually be recorded! Very annoying. Any suggestions(besides do without it)?

You need to make sure that it is on the opposite phase from your control room breaker. another possibility may be that when the fridge kicks on it is taxing the "headroom" of your electrical service. Get an electrician to test the amperage of your electrical draw when the fridge kicks on.
Electrok

We had this happen ...we actually had to go through a couple fridges before we found one that didn't do it, ( even with ups on it) but we finally found one. We put a Fender logo on it and going to a Bigsby tremolo arm for the door handle .

Yes, the fridge is on the other "leg" of the 220. There shouldn't be that big of a draw from such a little fridge, should there?

And in theory, why doesn't my big fridge at home make my stereo pop? Is it just Murphy's Law that it should happen in a place where it matters?

Whirlpool has a new 96k 32 floating bit refrigerator that self dithers the ice cubs.
After installing one in my control room I noticed a puncher low end and smoother highs.
Actually tracking while the refrigerator is running makes everything sound better.

Put a switch on it so you can shut down the compressor during tracking.

Any motorized device can cause a nasty spike on the power line. As to your kitchen fridge and the stereo, that's a good question. Could just be the power-supply design in the stereo.

It's unlikely, but possible that the spike is actually a small arc on a relay in the fridge. In this case, shielding or grounding the fridge might help.

Whip the back off, find the relay/ thermostat contacts and slap a 100pf 1000v capacitor across them.

That should cure it.

Obviously safety applies here.

don't do it unless you're competent, unplug the appliance first.


Lizardpoint


P.S I can't guarantee how your mixes will sound if you carry out this mod. Some studios have reported a certain brackishness in the lower midrange. You may need to re- analyse your room. I'm sure Jeremy will be able to advise

And with all that being said, if none of these solutions help, just go back to icing down the beer in a big Igloo.......just like I do.....nothing like that warm, natural, analog ice chill.

Seriously, the best way to avoid this sort of problem (or any other type of line noise for that matter) is to get a true "ON LINE" UPS. While much more expensive, these units convert the AC (with all the noise & crap) to DC, then inverts it back to a "Pure" 60 Hz sine wave. This is a "Full Time" conversion, it only switches to the batteries when the power goes out. Be sure to look for a unit with a "Pure" not a "Modified" sine wave output.

I use a "Best Power" model "610" which is rated for 1000VA which is sufficient for my Da7 and some outboard gear including a Hafler P3000 power amp. I might note this unit noticably lowered my noise floor as well, even more so than the "balanced power" transformer I was using before trying to do the same thing. Everything is quite as a mouse now, no unexpected pops or hum what-so-ever.

I had a similar problem when the central AC unit for my house (studio is a seperate building) kicked on - I'd get a hum. Wife & kids didn't like for me to turn off the AC while I was tracking or mixing - go figure... Anyway the "ON-LINE" UPS fixed all noise problems I ever had.

Go spend the best $400 you ever spent in your studio. It will be worth it. Don't wait, do it NOW!!!

Phil.